LONDON (AP) — London Fashion Week rolled out some of its biggest shows Monday, with luxury label Burberry leading a hectic catwalk schedule that also includes designers Erdem, Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane and Roksanda.

Some highlights from Day 4:

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BURBERRY UNVEILS TARTAN, PYTHON, SEQUINS

Burberry made its customary dramatic impact on London Fashion Week with a sometimes dazzling show. Design wizard Christopher Bailey has once more found new ways to reimagine the brand’s traditional strengths, transforming the trademark trench coat style into a variety of sparkly metallic looks that were anything but military in tone.

There were military coats, of course, but they were made of cashmere — far more comfortable than anything worn on the Western Front way back when. There were trench coats, cape coats, tunics and regimental jackets, some in military blue with red piping, but the looks were feminine, not severe. The collection mixes motifs, often in one outfit: a military style tunic and cape worn over a beautifully made flapper dress that would have served well in a Chicago speakeasy.

Most impressive were some of the colorful sequined tops that shimmered with a metallic sheen on the catwalk and the patchwork skirted mini-dresses, some in floral patterns. Bailey made extensive use of green outerwear and dresses, but used a variety of subtle shades to make the color most associated with military overcoats much more lighthearted.

Burberry is one of the highlights of London Fashion Week, and front row guests Monday included Vogue editor Anna Wintour, in a blue print dress, and model Naomi Campbell in a glamorous military style outfit of blue and red.

–Gregory Katz

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FADED GOLDEN AGE GLAMOUR AT ERDEM

Canadian designer Erdem Moralioglu’s new collection is all about early 20th century glamour tinged with sadness, as if he were reflecting on screen divas trapped in old sepia photos.

As soon as guests arrive they are greeted with a dimmed stage suggesting a crumbling mansion, complete with art deco lights, chandeliers, ornate columns and overturned chairs.

Models wore ankle-length slim gowns in a mostly gloomy palette of black, navy and burgundy, adorned by myriad ruffles, shimmering brocade flowers and the intricate embroidery for which the designer is famous. A pair of unexpected, sky blue leather gloves brightened some of the outfits.

Standout looks included a gown with long gold tinsel-like tassels paired with an ivory mohair jumper, and a gunmetal-gray sequined gown with matching cape.

–Sylvia Hui

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